Nutritionism in a food policy context: the case of ‘animal protein’
Frédéric Leroy
A * , Ty Beal B C , Pablo Gregorini D , Graham A. McAuliffe E and Stephan van Vliet F
+ Author Affiliations
- Author Affiliations
A Industrial Microbiology and Food Biotechnology (IMDO), Faculty of Sciences and Bioengineering Sciences, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Pleinlaan 2, B-1050 Brussels, Belgium.
B Global Alliance for Improved Nutrition (GAIN), Washington, DC 20036, USA.
C Department of Environmental Science and Policy, University of California, Davis, CA 95616, USA.
D Department of Agricultural Sciences, Faculty of Agricultural and Life Sciences, Lincoln University, PO Box 85084, Lincoln 7647 Christchurch, New Zealand.
E Sustainable Agriculture Sciences, Rothamsted Research, North Wyke, Okehampton, EX20 2SB, UK.
F Department of Nutrition, Dietetics, and Food Sciences, Utah State University, Logan, UT 84322, USA.
Frédéric Leroy graduated as a Bioengineer (Ghent University, 1998) and obtained a PhD in Applied Biological Sciences at the Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB, 2002), Belgium, where he now holds a professorship in food science and (bio)technology. His research deals with the production, technology, microbiology, and nutritional aspects of various foods, with a particular focus on animal-source foods. He is also involved in interdisciplinary research and cultural food studies. |
Ty Beal is a Research Advisor on the Knowledge Leadership team at the Global Alliance for Improved Nutrition (GAIN), where he generates evidence to guide programs and mobilise knowledge related to global nutrition and food systems. His research seeks to understand what people eat, why, how it impacts their health, and how to sustainably improve diets and human health. He holds a PhD from the University of California, Davis, where he was a National Science Foundation Graduate Research Fellow. |
Pablo Gregorini is Professor of Livestock Production at Lincoln University, Director of the Lincoln University Pastoral Livestock Production Lab, and Head of the Lincoln University Centre of Excellence for Designing Future Productive Landscapes. Internationally, he chairs the International Scientific Advisory Committee for the Symposium of Nutrition of Herbivores, and serve in the International Scientific Committee for farm systems design. His research focus is on nutrition, foraging ecology and grazing management of ruminants in different grasslands and rangelands of the world, as well as how phytochemistry and culture once linked the palates of humans and herbivores with soil, plants and landscapes. |
Graham A. McAuliffe is an Environmental Scientist with a background in Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) and Systems Thinking. His career focus to date has largely centred on methodological improvements to LCA, including the quantification of uncertainties and the consideration of foods’ nutritional composition and quality within the burgeoning field of nutritional LCA (or nLCA). His experience pertaining to nLCA, which is arguably still in its infancy, has resulted in being invited to consult on a number of national and international projects and ventures. Most recently, he was involved in an international report on nLCA commissioned by UNs’ FAO. |
S. van Vliet is an Assistant Professor in the Center for Human Nutrition Studies at Utah State University. Dr Stephan van Vliet earned his PhD in Kinesiology as an ESPEN Fellow from the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, and received training at Washington University in St Louis School of Medicine and Duke University School of Medicine. Dr van Vliet's research is performed at the nexus of agricultural and human health. He routinely collaborates with farmers, ecologists, and agricultural scientists to study critical linkages between agricultural production methods, the nutrient density of food, and human health. |
Animal Production Science 62(8) 712-720 https://doi.org/10.1071/AN21237
Submitted: 30 April 2021 Accepted: 10 December 2021 Published: 21 February 2022
© 2022 The Author(s) (or their employer(s)). Published by CSIRO Publishing. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License (CC BY-NC-ND)
Abstract
Reductionist approaches to food focus on isolated nutritional criteria, ignoring the broader physiological and societal benefits and trade-offs involved. They can lead to the inadvertent or, potentially, intentional labelling of foods as good or bad. Both can be considered worrisome. Among our present-day array of issues is the disproportionate stigmatisation of animal-source foods as harmful for human and planetary health. The case for a protein transition reinforces this trend, overemphasising one particular nutritional constituent (even if an important one). In its strongest formulation, animal-source foods (reduced to the notion of ‘animal protein’) are represented as an intrinsically harmful food category that needs to be minimised, thereby falsely assuming that ‘proteins’ are nutritionally interchangeable. We caution against using the word ‘protein’ in food policy-making to describe a heterogenous set of foods. Rather, we suggest referring to said foods as ‘protein-rich foods’, while acknowledging the expanded pool of non-protein nutrients that they provide and their unique capabilities to support a much broader range of bodily functions. Several essential or otherwise beneficial nutrients are generally more bioavailable in animal-source foods than in plant-source foods. A similar complementarity exists in reverse. Nutritional and environmental metrics should be carefully interpreted, as considerable contextuality is involved. This needs to be undertaken, for instance, with respect to the biochemistry of food and in light of individual and genetically inherited human physiology. Also, the assessments of the environmental impact need a fine-grained approach, especially when examining a product at the system scale. Harms and benefits are multiple, multi-dimensional, and difficult to measure on the basis of the narrow sets of descriptive metrics that are often used (e.g. CO2-eq/kg). A more appropriate way forward would consist of combining and integrating the best of animal and plant solutions to reconnect with wholesome and nourishing diets that are rooted in undervalued benefits such as conviviality and shared traditions, thus steering away from a nutrient-centric dogma. Humans do not consume isolated nutrients, they consume foods, and they do so as part of culturally complex dietary patterns that, despite their complexity, need to be carefully considered in food policy making.
Keywords: dairy, eggs, livestock, meat, plant-based, poultry, vegan, vegetarian.
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